Evenings are for chai and charcha (tea and gossip). It is the only sliver of leisure. In urban apartments, women gather on terraces for kitty parties (social financial clubs). In villages, they gather at the common tap. Increasingly, this time is being colonized by mobile phones—scrolling Instagram for make-up tutorials, watching YouTube vlogs by rural influencers, or online shopping.

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Evenings are for chai and charcha (tea and gossip). It is the only sliver of leisure. In urban apartments, women gather on terraces for kitty parties (social financial clubs). In villages, they gather at the common tap. Increasingly, this time is being colonized by mobile phones—scrolling Instagram for make-up tutorials, watching YouTube vlogs by rural influencers, or online shopping.